At The American Academy of Dermatology conference in 2002, research on peptides was presented that demonstrated their ability to firm skin and stimulate collagen production. Since then, dermatologists and consumers have come to swear by them. But they aren’t all created equally so here’s what you need to know about the 4 peptides most significant to skincare.
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 reduces inflammatory cytokines, known as interleukins (Clinics in Dermatology, 1999). By reducing inflammation, this peptide potentially reduces the cumulative amount of damage that occurs following exposure to UV light, pollution, internal stress, and other pro-inflammatory factors. Cells exposed to UV radiation and then treated with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 saw an 86% reduction of interleukin production.
Palmitoyl oligopeptide has been shown to significantly stimulate collagen production in human fibroblasts. When used twice daily for about six months it results in firmer skin, provided that other factors remain the same (meaning weight, sun exposure and the like).
Matrixyl-3000 has notable collagen-stimulating properties as reported in 2010 Bioorganic and Medicinal Chemistry Studies. It is actually a combination of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl oligopeptide.
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 has been demonstrated to stimulate new collagen synthesis and increase production of extracellular matrix proteins. In a 2005 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 was found to significantly improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as overall moisturization levels. A 2007 Cosmeceutical Peptides study also found that this peptide increases skin firmness over time. There is more research on it than any other peptide.